![]() The manager at my local Discount Tire called Hunter Engineering tech support and they walked him through a process to get the best results with off road tires. I am not an expert at this, but I have learned a few things over the years. But to do this right, it takes way more than just slapping them on the machine and sticking on some weights. And because of this, the balancing machine makes a "best case" suggestion as to how much and where to put the weights. This means the tire is balanced in two planes, vertical and horizontal. Discount can and should have already checked this, but make sure.īalancing large, heavy off road tires is not like balancing passenger car tires. As said before, make sure they are well within specs for roundness. As the age they are harder and harder to get to not shake. I guess I need to be educated on this stuff, because I don't know. I've asked one of the guys I work with regularly at the local DT and he says their techs only check to see if tires need to be balanced, if they do the balance them, if they don't, they don't do anything. I've told him, I don't ask for Discount Tire to do it, they just do it. I've taken a fair amount of heat from him because of how many times over the years the tires have been balanced and rotated. I'm by far no expert, but I can't say I necessarily agree with that. If you have a set tire that is balanced properly, is it possible over the course of 5000-6000 miles for them to get out of balance? A buddy of mine claims that once they are balanced properly in the beginning, they never need to balanced again and recommend covering the wheel weights with that HVAC tape to keep the weights from coming off. Now that I've vented a little I've got a question. I guess one of the wheels went from 9oz to 6oz of weight, not sure about the rest. I just had the tires balanced again and they apparently pulled all the weight and started from scratch. Replaced the steering stabilizer thinking maybe that had gone bad, it got a little better but the shake in the steering wheel was still there. Had the tires balanced and rotated, was told everything balanced out and things were a little better for a while but the shake in the Jeep and steering wheel persisted. Check and rechecked the front end and suspension several times and problems. I started noticing a shake and shimmy with the Jeep at all speeds on almost any road surface. Never really had that many problems (always had the tires rotated every 5-6k miles or so) with the tires up until about the last six months or so. But if you guys know of another tire to run on a 17x8, I will gladly look into them instead of focusing just on the DuraTrac.So I've been running 35x12.5x17 Goodyear MTR-K's for the last 3.5-4 years, have maybe 40k miles on them. I have a Dark Charcoal 2010 Rubicon, so the Teflon looks really nice with my paint. (They do not make the "Ledge" in a 17x9, only 17x8), So if I have to go with the 16x9 to get the "look" I like a lot better, and if the smaller tire is a bit less, should I go that route? Can anyone confirm this? Also, if I order this package from say TireRack or 4wheelparts, do they know the backspacing is okay with an AEV 2.5 inch lift? Or do I need to be worried about that on my own as well? I am getting ready to order something and just dont want to F it up before getting your input! Thanks a million. But I am pretty sure the 315/70R17 will not fit safely on the 17x8 size wheel. I like the Ledge as far as cosmetics better than the Artillery. I have come to this decision.ģ15/75R16 DuraTracs on ATX Ledge wheels which are 16x8, or.ģ15/70R17 DuraTracs on ATX Artillery wheel which is a 17x9 wheel. ![]()
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